Этим летом нам с мужем удалось съездить на Дальний Восток. В отпуске мы решили навестить сына, одновременно посмотреть страну и, конечно же, побывать на Байкале.
Выбрали путешествие на своей машине, так как это оказалось и дешевле, и быстрее. Предварительно изучили по интернету маршрут, отзывы людей о трассе «Омск-Иркутск», где можно покушать, остановиться на ночлег. Путь предстоял нам длинный-в пределах 2 тысяч километров!
Выехали ранним утром, и вплоть до Новосибирска дорога была нам знакома, а вот когда далее на горе я увидела огромную надпись — «Кузбасс», поняла, что мы находимся в Кемеровской области. Все мои дальнейшие впечатления, которыми я поделюсь с вами, будут исключительно только моим субъективным мнением.
Кемерово меня неожиданно разочаровало. Конечно знакомство с этими местами было поверхностным, но серенькие, неотремонтированные современными стройматериалами здания, словно окунули меня в 80-е годы прошлого века. Хотя я прекрасно знаю, что Кемеровский край –край шахтеров, и весьма богатый промышленный регион.
Трасса, по которой мы двигались, оказалась очень оживленной, встречалось множество придорожных кафе, где можно было вкусно поесть в пределах от 300 до 600 рублей на одного человека. Качество дороги позволяло двигаться со скоростью до 110 километров в час, поэтому внимательность была предельная. В городе Ачинске мы нашли хорошую гостиницу, в которой заночевали и привели себя в порядок перед дальнейшим путешествием. А впереди нас ждал Красноярск.
Сам город остался немного в стороне от нашего маршрута, он построен на холмах, и частично спрятан от глаз в низинах. Но что меня сильно впечатлило, так это тайга, бескрайняя и безбрежная. Было немного страшновато, потому что на протяжении 200 километров дороги не было ни одного населенного пункта, хотя встречались туристы с рюкзачками как пешие, так и на велосипедах. Я подумала, что они храбрецы, потому что в тайге, помимо других зверей, много змей. Но какой там воздух! Мы останавливались подышать и не могли надышаться. Этот чистейший воздух проникал даже в салон автомобиля, хотя мы ехали с закрытыми окнами. В Красноярском крае меня поразили деревянные дома с красивыми и разнообразными ставенками. Здесь чувствуется совершенно другой уклад жизни, есть много мастеров по дереву, даже заборы сделаны иначе, чем у нас на Алтае. Мне, как музейному работнику, все это было крайне интересно.
Всегда умиляли названия наших российских сел, где бы они не были расположены. У села Болотное я ожидаемо впервые увидела настоящее болото. Слишком близко подходить я побоялась. Места опасные, хотя местные знают все тропы, собирают ягоды. Их можно купить по дороге. Названия сел Юрты, Тайшет, Азамат говорят о проживающих здесь тюркоязычных народах нашей страны.
Понравился чистый город Канск, где находится множество деревянных и каменных Храмов, а в Усолье –Сибирском есть настоящий Храмовый комплекс.
Добравшись наконец к сыну в Ангарск, немного отдохнув мы все вместе отправились в единственный в России музей часов. Когда-то все коллекционеры этих мест не продавали часы за деньги, а отдавали их в музей и теперь можно всем желающим любоваться часами, выпущенными начиная с 14 века-водными, песочными, механическими.
Эти края очень богаты минералами, и в музее минералогии можно было увидеть удивительные самородки минералов и горных камней.
Ангарск стоит на реке Ангаре. Об этой мощной сибирской реке сложены песни, смотреть на ее чистые воды можно часами, забыв о мирской суете. Дальше наш путь лежал на озеро Байкал. По- моему впечатлению, это великое пресное озеро больше похоже на море-настолько оно огромно. Мы совершили тур на теплоходе, бесконечно восхищаясь силой и чистотой Байкала.
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Побывать в Бурятии и не посетить сероводородные ванны-это преступление! Мы ехали по долине, где не бывает ветров, пасутся огромные табуны лошадей, встречаются красивые буддистские Храмы. Подъехав к заветному курортному поселку, заплатили по 300 рублей на человека за вход и отправились в большой бассейн с водой яркого цвета морской волны. Этот цвет радовал глаза, а горячая вода, которая била из источника постоянно, согревала. Нас предупредили, что сероводородные ванны нельзя принимать дольше 15-20 минут. Я увидела здесь очень много людей со всех уголков нашей страны, которые выбрали не отдых за рубежом, а путешествие по России.
По пути назад мы посетили удивительный музей деревянного зодчества под открытым небом в тайге — «Тальцы». Ходя по маршрутным тропам, мы зашли в настоящий чум эвенков. Увидели ямы для охоты на животных, как и на чем готовили пищу. Попали в настоящее село с крестьянскими домами, с домами знати из кедрача, с воскресной школой, церковью, больницей. Всюду воспроизведен быт того времени и находятся восковые фигуры людей в полный рост. Они создают атмосферу реальности происходящего. На улице возле здания старинной тюрьмы я даже примерила на себя кандалы заключенных, которые одевались на руки. Впечатление осталось неприятное, жуткое. Вспомнилось из истории, как много каторжников и ссыльных отправляли в эти глухие края в таких вот кандалах.
Понравился амбар, в котором сидел настоящий, не восковой смотритель. Там хранится пшеница, ячмень, овес. На стенах висят серпы и плуги. Мыши смотрителя не беспокоят, так как лари находятся высоко над землей, вот только иногда приходится гонять бурундучков. Везде свои грызуны!
В сказочном городке-усадьбе Бабы Яги нас напоили вкуснейшим зельем. У шоколадного напитка, кофе и чая с таежными травами был удивительный и неповторимый вкус, который запомнится на всю жизнь. В царстве Бабушки Яги я приобрела уникальный браслет, кедровое масло, сироп из шишек, дудочку свиристелку. Вот такое богатство! Поразил меня размах музея-мы три часа шли по тайге, иногда отдыхая в специальных зонах, наподобие сказочного городка, где можно было посидеть на стульчиках и перекусить.
В Иркутске меня восхитил самый главный Храм, построенный из мрамора и полудрагоценных камней. Там тихо играет орган, а вокруг Храма растут красивейшие цветы и поют дивные птицы. Мне даже показалось, что я попала в настоящий рай, где нет земных забот, а есть только твоя душа. Но, как бы это не было прекрасно, пришлось возвращаться в реальность. А реальность такова, что остро назрела проблема экономического развития этих поистине необъятных просторов.
Город Иркутск выглядит немного устаревшим городом, а в деревеньках доживают свой век пенсионеры. Удручающая картина, хотя она созвучна и многим селам нашего края. У меня, правда, создалось впечатление, что мы на Алтае живем современней. Кстати, тамошнюю картошку есть невозможно, она деревянная и никакая на вкус. Хоть и красоты природные у них замечательные, а лучше нашей степной картошки нет на свете!
Какие мысли посетили меня после поездки на Дальний Восток? Как мало мы знаем нашу страну, как все-таки сложно и дорого добираться в отдаленные уголки огромной России обычному человеку, и это плохо. Россия такая удивительная, такая многообразная. Здесь есть все! И как важно нам не только знать об этом, но и видеть своими глазами.
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